The Champions of Alternative Varieties in Australian Wine

The Australian wine industry is undergoing a transformation, driven by a new generation of winemakers who are embracing alternative grape varieties. Moving away from mainstream grapes, these innovators are experimenting with varietals predominantly from Italy, Spain, and Portugal. This movement is opening up new possibilities for wine styles in Australia, thanks in part to the early Italian immigrants of the 1950s who brought their expertise and passion for viticulture. Now, several generations later, a wave of talented young winemakers is blending traditional techniques with modern ideas, creating unique wines that may shape Australia’s future wine scene.

Discovering Varietal Innovators

With a particular focus on Italian varietals, the search for the champions of alternative varieties led to an eight-week journey across the eastern states of Australia—from Mudgee in New South Wales to Mt Benson in South Australia. Although the renowned King Valley in Victoria, often referred to as "Little Italy," was not included in this journey, the regions visited revealed a vibrant scene of innovation and excellence.

Mudgee: A Cradle of Innovation

Mudgee, located in the central west of New South Wales, boasts a viticultural history dating back to 1858. The region is notable for its role in nurturing a distinguished clone of Chardonnay, believed by some to descend from vines introduced by James Busby in 1832. Today, Mudgee is home to 35 cellar doors producing wines from 34 different varieties. The leading champions of alternative varietals in this region are First Ridge and Di Lusso.

First Ridge, helmed by winemaker James Manners and viticulturist Colin Millott, has dedicated 23 years to producing premium Italian varietal wines on their picturesque estate just outside Mudgee. Their focus is exclusively on Italian grapes, crafting small batches of Barbera, Sangiovese, Vermentino, Fiano, and Pinot Grigio. In 2021, they released their first vintage of Montepulciano.

Di Lusso is another specialist in the region, offering limited batches of Fiano, Arneis, Pinot Grigio, and Vermentino among their whites, and Nebbiolo, Barbera, Sangiovese, and Lagrein among their reds. They also produce a dessert wine based on the Aleatico grape.

David Lowe at Lowe Family Wines is also making strides in the varietal space, dedicating a section of his Mudgee vineyard to varieties like Ansonica, Vermentino, Nero D’Avola, Pecorino, and Falanghina.

Millthorpe and the Foothills of Mt Canobolas

Just beyond Orange, in the heritage-listed village of Millthorpe, Angullong Wines stands out as a champion of varietals. Their vineyards, situated in the volcanic soils at the base of Mt Canobolas, yield Barbera, Sangiovese, Sagrantino, Tempranillo, and Pinot Grigio.

Barossa Valley: A Hub of Diversity

The Barossa Valley, one of Australia’s most celebrated wine regions, is home to Wayne Farquhar, formerly of Dell’uva Wines and now at Wines by Farquhar in Greenock. With a background spanning horticulture and global viticulture research, Farquhar offers a diverse array of varietals, including Albarino, Nero d'Avola, Mencia, Aglianico, Arinto, Ansonica, and Verdicchio. His cellar door features 24 varietals, and up to 70 more are being trialed in his nursery.

Yalumba is another key player in the Barossa, being pioneers of Viognier and now recognized as one of the world’s most influential producers of this variety.

McLaren Vale: A Region of Champions

McLaren Vale stands out for its abundance of varietal champions, driven by passionate and dedicated winemakers. Notable figures include Briony Hoare at Beach Road, Stephen Pannell, and Jim Zerella. These innovators are recognized for their commitment to excellence and experimentation.

Briony Hoare, owner and winemaker at Beach Road Wines, adheres to the philosophy of continual improvement and produces outstanding varietals such as Fiano, Pinot Grigio, Greco, Nero d’Avola, and Aglianico.

The Zerella family, with deep-rooted farming and viticulture heritage, highlights Italian varietals in their La Gita range, under the stewardship of third-generation winemaker Jim Zerella.

Primo Estate continues the Grillo legacy with tastings that include Garganega, Fiano, Sangiovese Rosé, Nero, and Nebbiolo.

Stephen Pannell Wines is a significant force, producing 14 wines from alternative varietals and exploring experimental blends.

Coriole has championed varietals since 1985, starting with Sangiovese and later adding Fiano in 2001. Olivers Taranga, with Corrina Wright at the helm—named Winemaker of the Year by the ASVO in 2018—features seven varietals at their cellar door and has long supported alternative grapes.

Mt Benson and the Limestone Coast

At Mt Benson on the Limestone Coast, Anita Goode of Wangolina is a true champion of alternative varietals. Her tasting list features five different varietals, including Gruner and Lagrein, while the vineyard is home to Malvasia and Verdicchio. The trial plots at Wangolina are particularly impressive, with eight varieties under experimentation, such as Pecorino and Greco.

Adelaide Hills: Experimentation and Excellence

In Hahndorf, Adelaide Hills, Sam Scott at La Prova leads the charge with experimentation on 16 Italian varietals, delivering stunning results. The Fiano and Sangiovese particularly stand out. In 2025, La Prova released the Oxbow label, with the 2024 Fiano acclaimed as one of the most elegant examples in Australia.

Additionally, Larry Jacobs at Hahndorf Hill—known as the 'Guru of Gruner'—has earned acclaim for a lineup of gold-medal-winning Gruner Veltliners. Although Hahndorf Hill Wines has recently been sold to Wirra Wirra, the new owners have pledged to continue championing Jacobs’s legacy with Gruner.

Looking Ahead

This exploration only scratches the surface of what is happening in Australian vineyards regarding alternative varietals. It is an exciting era for lovers of these unique grapes, and with the growing popularity of varieties like Fiano, the future of Australian wine looks bright and diverse. There is no doubt that we need innovation and the development of more Mediterranean varietals here in Australia to win back wine drinkers and keep the industry alive and vibrant.