The Truth about Truffles

Italian Truffles: Fascinating Facts

Truffles are a unique type of mushroom, or fungi, that grow beneath the surface of the soil, typically in close proximity to the roots of certain trees. These remarkable fungi thrive only in woods where specific tree species, such as oaks and poplars, are present. The relationship between truffles and these trees is symbiotic, meaning that both benefit: the truffles help the tree absorb phosphorus, while the tree provides the truffles with sugars essential for their growth.

Italy is home to around 30 different types of truffles, but only a select few are edible. The country’s truffle-growing regions are defined by the presence of the right trees and environmental conditions. Truffles are demanding mushrooms, requiring particular soil and climate to flourish. They are often found in woods with a mix of trees and sparse undergrowth to maintain humidity, most commonly along stream banks, but also near footpaths, pine trees, and poplars. Each truffle species needs its own unique blend of soil and climate conditions.

Truffle Seasons and Value

The white truffle season in Italy runs from September to December, while other truffle varieties are hunted at different times throughout the year. Truffle prices can fluctuate dramatically from year to year, depending on factors such as weather, rainfall, summer temperatures, and the success of the hunt. The quality and flavour of a truffle are closely tied to its freshness and moisture content; truffles lose their flavour quickly as they dry out, so it is always best to buy them fresh.

If only this truffle was real.

Unique Biology and History

The truffle consists of two parts: the edible fruiting body and an invisible underground network of “roots.” Fruiting bodies appear at various times depending on the truffle type and may vary in size and shape, typically occurring at depths between 4 to 16 inches below ground. Underneath their smooth or rough skin lies a soft and aromatic flesh.

Historically, truffles have fascinated people for centuries. The ancient Greeks believed truffles formed when lightning struck damp soil. Some scientists speculate that truffles began growing underground as a survival strategy against forest fires, drought, and extreme cold. Truffles produce a chemical almost identical to a sex pheromone found in male pigs’ saliva, which is why pigs, as well as trained dogs and goats, are often used to sniff them out. Interestingly, men also secrete the same chemical in their underarm sweat.

Truffles have inspired many nicknames, being called the “diamond of cookery,” “fairy apple,” “black queen,” “gem of poor lands,” “fragrant nugget,” and the “black pearl.” The black truffle has even been considered an aphrodisiac; its strong aroma led Epicureans to liken its scent to that of tousled sheets in a brothel. In the Middle Ages, monks were forbidden from eating truffles out of fear that they would forget their spiritual duties.

Truffles in Italian Culture

Italians consider the white truffle (Tuber magnatum) the most prized for its superior taste compared to the black truffle (Tuber melanosporum). The value placed on truffles is so high that Italian truffle farmers often employ armed security to protect their properties during peak season. The rarity and desirability of truffles are reflected in their market prices: a rare Italian white truffle once sold for £28,000 at a charity auction in 2004.

The White Truffle

The “white truffle” or “trifola d’Alba Madonna” (Tuber magnatum) is primarily found in the Langhe and Montferrat areas of the Piedmont region in northern Italy, especially around the cities of Alba and Asti. It is also present in Molise, Abruzzo, the hills surrounding San Miniato in Tuscany, and the Istria peninsula. White truffles grow symbiotically with oak, hazel, poplar, and beech trees, and fruit in autumn. They can reach up to 12 cm in diameter and 500 g in weight, though most are much smaller. The flesh is pale cream or brown with white marbling, and these truffles are highly esteemed and the most valuable on the market.

During the build up to the harvest, all properties employ armed security guards to watch the perimeters of the Oak tree forests, poaching is like robbing a bank.

The peak of the white truffle market in Alba is during October and November, when the Fiera del Tartufo (truffle fair) takes place.

As of October 2025, the price for fresh white truffles (Tuber magnatum) typically ranges from $7,000 to $10,000 per kilogram, depending on quality, size, and market demand. Prices may fluctuate week to week, so it’s advisable to check with reputable truffle suppliers for the most up-to-date rates.

Ascoli Piceno, heart of truffle country.