Four Regions in Four Weeks: A Slow Food Journey Across Italy

Embarking on a journey through four remarkable regions of Italy, we set out to immerse ourselves in the Italian lifestyle, indulge in the wines, and savour the philosophy of Slow Food. Armed with my trusted guide, The Osterie & Locande D’Italia, our aim was to explore each destination at a leisurely pace, embracing the traditions and culinary treasures unique to each area.

Why We Chose This Adventure

Our love for Italy, its culture, and the Slow Food movement inspired this trip. For those unfamiliar, Slow Food was established in Bra, Piedmont, in 1986 as a response to the growing standardisation of taste and the global manipulation of consumers. The movement is dedicated not only to protecting the historic, artistic, and environmental heritage of places known for gastronomic pleasure but also to safeguarding food and agricultural heritage—crop biodiversity, artisan techniques, food traditions, and sustainable agriculture.

I have always believed in being a Locavore, enjoying the food and drink produced within the region I visit. Farmers markets are top of my list whenever I arrive somewhere new, as I seek out the freshest local produce. My journey with the Italian lifestyle began in 1999 during a trip through Sicily after attending the Rugby World Cup in the UK. That adventure, shared with two friends, was our first freewheeling trip and it ignited my passion for all things Italian.

Since then, we have travelled through most Italian regions, returning each year to discover different areas, with carefully planned wine and food tours incorporated into every trip. With a growing network of contacts and a desire to return as often as possible, we launched Wine and Food Traveller to share these experiences with those just as passionate about the Italian lifestyle. Little did I realise that the ethos behind Wine and Food Traveller would align so closely with the ideals of Slow Food.

The Journey Begins: Welcome to Veneto

Our adventure started in the Veneto region, a vast area stretching from Lake Garda in the west to Venice and the Adriatic Sea in the east, with the ski resort of Cortina d’Ampezzo in the far north. Veneto encompasses seven provinces: Belluno, Treviso, Venezia, Verona, Vicenza, Padova, and Rovigo. It is a region brimming with wine country, beautiful cities and villages, and stunning natural scenery—a perfect destination for wine lovers and Slow Food devotees.

Exploring Venice

We arrived in style in Venice as the sun rose, cruising in onboard La Lyrial from the Ponant fleet—a truly spectacular way to witness the city for the first time. Our accommodation for the next three nights was a stunning apartment in a 15th-century palace in Cannaregio, the district of choice for local Venetians. Staying here allowed us to experience the authentic side of the city, away from the crowds that often threaten to overwhelm Venice. The views from our windows were breathtaking, and returning to this beautiful apartment each day was a joy, especially with the best wi-fi of our entire journey.

With three nights in Venice and some careful planning, we managed to see everything we had hoped for. We bought a three-day pass for the water bus and vaporettas, which proved to be the ideal way to explore the city and nearby islands, such as Burano, famous for its glass-blowing studios.

Relaxing with a glass of Prosecco and a cicchetto—the Venetian take on tapas—became a favourite pastime, especially as the Rialto Markets were just across the canal from our accommodation. A morning visit is a must, as you can watch local chefs negotiate for the finest seafood. The San Polo district, a maze of small lanes, offers numerous dining options, and the further you venture from the tourist hotspots and the Rialto Bridge, the better the quality of cuisine. Eating like a local is always my preferred approach.

A Slow Food Experience at La Bitta

Our first Slow Food-endorsed dining experience took place at La Bitta, a small osteria that began as a bacaro where patrons could stop for an ombra and a cicheto. Now, it is making a name for itself among Venice’s restaurants. The atmosphere is warm and inviting, with seating in the bar, dining room, and outdoor courtyard garden. Booking is essential, as seats are limited.

Debora, the delightful front-of-house, presented the menu, describing dishes prepared by her husband Marcellino. The menu changes daily based on what is available at the nearby markets, focusing on meat and vegetables from the local area of exceptional quality. Dishes might include rabbit meat “in saor”, tagliatelle with white meat ragout, potato dumplings with fresh ricotta and herbs, lamb chops sautéed with thyme, braised pork cheeks, veal liver Venetian style, grilled fillet of beef with bacon, duck in peverada sauce, and chicken straccetti with finferli mushrooms. The meal concludes with a selection of cheeses and delicious homemade puddings.

The wine list, curated by Debora, features around 60 wineries from the Triveneto region, with some options available by the glass. This special evening provided an authentic insight into traditional Venetian cuisine, prepared and presented with pride. Given the realistic pricing for Venice, our group thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

From Venice to Soave

After two more days exploring Venice, we collected our car and headed west across the Veneto, following the A4 and bypassing Padova and Vincenza to reach Soave, a region east of Verona. Our limited time allowed for just one wine region, and Soave, with its reputation, was the ideal choice.

Veneto is filled with vineyards and home to numerous appellations, including DOCG Bardolino Superiore, Recioto di Soave, Soave Superiore (primarily using the Garganega grape), DOC Colli Euganei (noted for Cabernet Franc and Merlot), Bianco di Custoza (refreshing white wines), Bardolino (light reds and strong rosés made with Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara grapes, as well as Negrara and Rossignola), Lugana (aromatic whites), and Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene.

We had organised a wine tasting at Trabucchi, one of our tour partners in the region. The winery, built into the side of a hill, offers outstanding wines and a warm family welcome. Raphaella greeted us personally, and we enjoyed a relaxed morning discovering the wines and the history of the Trabucchi family. The wines will be reviewed separately, and we look forward to returning next year with one of our wine and food traveller tours.

Staying in Soave

Our accommodation was a lovely villa property at Colognola ai Colli, nestled in the hills behind the town of Soave. This peaceful retreat in the Est Veronese province was perfectly located for exploring Verona and the surrounding villages of the Soave region.

Slow Food Discoveries in the Adige River Region

Turning again to our Slow Food guide, we planned the next two days of dining. We headed south to the Adige River region to visit the Bassa Veronese, a vast plain where the vialone nano veronese rice is grown and protected by IGP designation. We had hoped to dine at RisotteriaMelotti, a family-owned osteria where the menu is based entirely on the region’s rice, but unfortunately, we arrived too late—definitely one for the next visit.

Instead, we found a trattoria in Ronco all’Adige that is an essential stop when travelling through Soave. Locals all know about Sofia’s, though there are no signposts—only a discreet sign on an unassuming house marks the spot. The menu follows the seasons, using produce from the local rice fields, wetlands, and the Adige River. Traditional dishes such as risotto with meat, risotto with frog’s legs, and risotto with pessin de fossa are highlights. I chose the risotto with frog’s legs—simply outstanding.

This place is an institution, with the owner and her two daughters running the kitchen in a way that is deeply rooted in local tradition and the true philosophy of Slow Food. Sofia herself is a wonderfully personable character. Booking is essential, as this little gem is beloved by locals, who often dress up for the occasion.

Exploring Est Veronese and Beyond

The Est Veronese province abounds with Slow Food-endorsed products, and three to four days could easily be spent tasting olive oils, cheeses, wines, and dining at hidden osterias tucked away in the most obscure locations. We also visited Frantoio Bonamini, producers of highly acclaimed olive oils recognised by Slow Food.

Farewell to Veneto

On our final day in Veneto, we spent a few hours exploring the beautiful city of Verona before continuing our journey west towards Piedmont. Dining in Verona will have to wait until our next visit.

Join us as we journey to our next region, Piedmont.