Historic cheese breeders of Italy
- Bruce White
- Oct 28
- 6 min read
Guffanti cheese makers & providores.
I first met Giovanni Guffanti at Terra Madre Salon del Gusto in Turin in 2018 and at the time I didn't realise how significant this family has been within the world of cheese in Italy. I will put a link up for their website, as their product range , both by region and type is just outstanding. Their "shop" or cave in Arona in the region of Novara is well worth a visit. What follows here is the history of the family from their website.
When Luigi Guffanti began maturing Gorgonzola in 1876, his brilliant idea was to purchase an abandoned silver mine in Valganna, in the province of Varese.
Down there, at a constant temperature and humidity all year round, the cheese matured so well that Luigi soon conquered the markets: his sons Carlo and Mario, at the beginning of the twentieth century, exported as far as Argentina and California, lands of Piedmontese and Lombard emigration.
Maximum attention to the artisanal quality of the dairy product and a passion for careful refinement are the tradition that the Guffanti Fiori family has jealously passed down for five generations.
The experience gained with Gorgonzola has been gradually transferred to the Toma cheeses from the Ossola mountain pastures, to Parmigiano Reggiano, to all Italian cheeses and to French, English, Spanish, Swiss, Portuguese ones...
At the origin of it all, an old abandoned silver mine that, at a certain point, began producing another precious commodity derived from milk.
The Guffanti Fiori family
It is a family united by rennet that has been raising its cheeses in Arona, in the province of Novara, since 1876: Carlo Guffanti Fiori, his sons Giovanni and Davide represent the fourth and fifth generations.
The founder, Luigi, began his business by purchasing an abandoned silver mine in Valganna, where he matured his first cheeses. He also founded the Arona winery beneath a bastion of the city walls, in a space originally intended for military use and converted with the inventiveness of a diviner. With his sons Carlo and Mario, Guffanti cheeses began to follow in the footsteps of Lombard and Piedmontese emigrants, who were flocking to America at the beginning of the 20th century. New markets for new products, as the frontier was shifting from Gorgonzola to conquering the Toma cheeses from the Ossola mountain pastures and Parmigiano Reggiano, and in recent times, even grabbing the most prized varieties from European markets.
Cheesemakers Carlo, Giovanni, and Davide now manage the evolution of their cheese in a new space in Arona: here, the cellar is a second terroir, and the aging process is a phase of rebirth. Because behind a great product lies the knowledge of cheesemakers, animals, and pristine landscapes, as well as familiarity with the microclimate, bacterial flora, and natural transformations, which only the affineur can master. The cheeses are purebred colts, "raised" according to a methodology based on time, brushing, oiling, scrubbing, and ad hoc turning.
Great-grandson of Luigi and uncle of Giacomo (author of the cheesemaking bible, Formaggi Italiani), Carlo was a brilliant microeconomics researcher at Bocconi University before returning to the Milky Way: "I had won a university competition, they required my full-time presence, and I had to choose. I did so by following my passion for a world that seemed to me to be rich in human relationships, more concrete than the numbers on a balance sheet. Because when I look at my cheeses, I see nature, animals, people, science, and history." This pathos didn't stop him from putting his previous managerial knowledge to good use, making Guffanti a multifaceted, innovative, and successful company.
Carlo Guffanti Fiori and his sons Giovanni and Davide are responsible for the entire company management and the delicate process of sourcing and selecting the cheeses.
In this position, they handle all aspects of company life, capitalizing on the wealth of knowledge and professionalism they have developed over the years.
The company thus gradually became a point of reference for discerning consumers seeking authenticity in the world of artisanal cheeses, in an increasingly broad geographical context that now encompasses Italy, parts of Europe, and several non-European countries (the USA, Hong Kong, Japan, Australia and New Zealand, India, and the United Arab Emirates). It can be said that a company like Guffanti today presents itself, on the Italian food and wine scene, as a small but fierce ambassador of our traditions and artisanal specialties.
This result is due above all to the testimony that is given daily in terms of enthusiasm and attachment to the world of small production realities, even beyond simple economic gain.
This "passion" is Guffanti's true marketing weapon in a world focused on high volumes and exacerbated competition, even to the detriment of the products' distinctive characteristics. For these reasons, Carlo and Giovanni Guffanti Fiori are often asked to give testimonials on national radio and television programs, or in articles and investigations in the national press, both specialized and otherwise. They also hold cheese seminars in highly qualified professional settings (for example, aimed at foreign chefs coming to Italy for training), and they are even recognized by those who value the world of tradition.
"THE DOCTOR": Carlo Guffanti Flowers
From university microeconomics researcher to "cheese farmer", initially out of necessity (in the 1970s, someone was needed to manage the historic shop on Via Liberazione in Arona) and then, increasingly, out of passion and love for cheese: this, in a nutshell, is Carlo Fiori's journey.
At the end of 1999, Carlo Fiori was called to join the prestigious “CONFRERIE des CHEVALIERS du TASTE FROMAGE DE FRANCE”, subsequently acquiring the rank of Grand Officier (Grand Officer) in 2002. Also in 2002, he was cited in the “DICTIONNAIRE DES FROMAGES FRANCAIS” by the legendary Pierre Androuet as a point of reference for Italy in the cheese affineur sector.
Carlo Fiori is a member of the “Guilde Internationale des Fromagers” and the “Confraternita di San Lucio” and is often called upon to judge or juror at international cheese competitions.
He was the inspiration/consultant for the publication “FORMAGGI ITALIANI” (Eos Editrice), the first true photographic, as well as technical, repertoire of the entire Italian dairy panorama.
This book, one of the first on the subject published in Italy, was revised, updated and reprinted in 2016 on the occasion of the 140th anniversary of Luigi Guffanti.
range This link will take you to their product https://guffantiformaggi.com/en/
The Varese Region of Italy
The Varese region, located in Lombardy, Italy, is known for its diverse agricultural products. If you were visiting one of the trendy regions of Italy, namely Lake Como or Lago Maggiore, and you wanted a rural destination to explore and visit some amazing locavore producers, Varese is just down the road. The province of Novara just across the lake in Piedmont, along with Vercelli (also in Piedmont), forms the heart of Italy’s rice-growing region, especially for varieties like Arborio, Carnaroli, and Vialone Nano.
Here are some notable foods grown in this area:
Rice: The region is famous for its rice paddies, particularly for varieties like Arborio and Carnaroli, which are essential for risotto.
Vegetables: A variety of vegetables are cultivated, including:
Asparagus
Radicchio
Tomatoes
Fruits: The mild climate allows for the growth of several fruits, such as:
Apples
Pears
Cherries
Cheese: The region is also known for its dairy products, particularly cheeses like:
Gorgonzola
Fontina
Wine: The province of Varese, located in northern Lombardy near the Swiss border, is not as widely known for wine as other Lombard regions, but it does have a small, historic wine tradition. The main wine area is the I.G.T. Ronchi Varesini (Indicazione Geografica Tipica), which covers the hilly areas (“ronchi”) around Varese.
Grape varieties grown and wines produced in Varese include:
Red Grapes/Wines:
Nebbiolo (locally called Spanna) , Barbera, Croatina, Uva Rara, Merlot &
Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir)
White Grapes/Wines: Chardonnay, Trebbiano, Malvasia, Pinot Bianco (Pinot Blanc), Pinot Grigio
The wines are typically fresh and light, reflecting the cooler climate and hilly terrain. The Ronchi Varesini IGT designation allows for both varietal and blended wines, both red and white.
While Varese is not a major wine destination compared to areas like Oltrepò Pavese or Franciacorta, its small-scale producers are gaining recognition for quality and local character.