The Maggot Cheese of Sardinia: A Delicacy for the Fearless Foodie

Introduction to Casu Marzu

I have always been one to try local traditions, especially when it comes to local foods, but I have to admit this tested my limits.

 When most people think of Italian cheese, they picture creamy mozzarella, salty Pecorino Romano, or nutty Parmigiano-Reggiano. However, hidden in the heart of Sardinia—a rugged, mountainous island—exists a culinary curiosity that defies conventional expectations about cheese. This unique creation is called Casu Marzu, and it is renowned for its most unusual ingredient: live maggots !!

A Centuries-Old Sardinian Tradition

Sardinian shepherds have spent centuries perfecting the art of making this pungent, soft cheese. The process begins with a standard Pecorino cheese crafted from sheep’s milk, which is then set on a path towards a much more intense result. Cheesemakers deliberately create cracks in the cheese wheel to attract the Piophila casei, or cheese skipper fly, which lays its eggs inside the cheese.

As the fly larvae—or maggots—hatch, they feast on the cheese, and their digestive acids break down the fats, transforming the once-firm texture into a creamy, intensely flavoured delicacy. The name "casu marzu" literally translates to "rotten cheese", an apt description for a food that is essentially in a state of advanced decomposition.

A Taste Unlike Any Other

The experience of eating cheese teeming with wriggling maggots is not for the faint-hearted. Devotees of Casu Marzu describe its taste as intensely rich, with hints of Mediterranean herbs and a spicy, tingling sensation that lingers long after eating. Traditionally, it is served by cracking open the top rind to reveal the creamy, maggot-filled centre. The cheese is spread on moistened Sardinian flatbread (pane carasau) and paired with a robust local red wine, making it a meal for the adventurous.

Safety Concerns and Cultural Significance

For Sardinians, casu marzu is considered safe to eat only while the maggots are alive. If the larvae have perished, the cheese is believed to be spoiled and unfit for consumption. This tradition stands in contrast to modern health authorities’ concerns. Consuming live insect larvae poses potential health risks, such as the possibility of the maggots surviving in the human digestive system and causing intestinal problems. Due to these risks, the commercial sale of casu marzu is banned throughout Italy and the European Union. Despite this, production continues in Sardinia, where it remains a revered cultural delicacy, enjoyed at the consumer’s own risk.

A Forbidden Delight

Casu marzu is more than food; it represents Sardinian tradition and a challenge to modern food regulations. For the bold traveller or fearless food lover, it stands as a legendary delicacy—offering a taste of history, an adrenaline rush, and a story that is truly unforgettable.

The Verdict.

A seriously strong cheese, like a blue on steroids, I avoided the maggots, and I did enjoy the flavour. Make sure you have some sourdough to dumb down the intense flavour. The cheese works well with big reds or dessert wines.  I would suggest only tasting or buying Casa Marzu when visiting the villages of Sardinia!  Another box ticked. The cheese is never on display, so you have to know someone who knows who has the cheese behind the counter